Street Benches: Monteverde

Public housing projects exist in almost every neighborhood beyond the historic center, thereby creating mixed communities of rich and poor, ...

The Fans of Lazio: C.M.L. '74, Il Tassinaro

Lazio fans, on the Curva Nord With apologies to fans of the soccer club AS Roma, and with a sense of betrayal (for Roma is our team, too), w...

The Gates of Rome: The Postwar Era

Some of these gates are best seen--and photographed--at night.  A window barred--but elegantly, c. 1910 From the point of view of ...

RST Top 40. #26: Best Market in Rome...Piazza....

Romans (and tourists) are fiercely proud of and defensive about their locals markets, so in choosing a "best" market for Rome the...

Rome: Walk(s) on the Wild Side

When we first imagined Rome the Second Time as a book, we roughed out a chapter--ideas, really--titled "Walk on the Wild Side" (f...

The Pope and Us - views from the bar

With Christmas coming, we think some mention of the Pope is in order. The photo here, taken at Bar Tony, in Monteverde Nuovo, is a perfect e...

Monteverde Stories 1: Skyscrapers, Devil Woman, School Tragedy

In April, when we first scootered down the hill from our Monteverde Nuovo apartment on Piazza Madonna della Salette, and around the big, gen...

Obamamania Italian style

Russians may be cool about him, but Italians are crazy for Obama, in our experience. Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi (he of the gaffes and ...

Two-bag Ladies: Grocery Shopping in Rome

They're "two-bag ladies," and they can be observed in large numbers, especially in the morning, in every Rome neighborhood: o...