Born Again in Piazza Fiume: La Rinascente

Piazza Fiume.  As Rome piazzas go, it's not much.  Today, its main purpose is to move vehicles from one place to another: the North/Sout...

An Awkward Moment at an Art Opening

        At Luigi Moretti's ex-GIL (where Fascist youth once played their games), Trastevere, last June. 

The Building Wars: MAXXI vs MACRO - Rome's Contemporary Art Blockbusters

MAXXI looking good - summer night art work lights up the courtyard,  and the jutting out window is always captivating Is Rome's MAXXI – ...

Riccardo Morandi's Metronio Market

Over the past century, Rome has produced two generations of great architects.   One, serving Mussolini’s Fascist regime, or simply practicin...

Feast of Rome Art and Architecture: Moretti's L'ex GIL Open for Business

Young and hip outside L'ex GIL on opening night of art exhibition We lovers of 20 th Century Italian architecture again found ourselves ...

RST Top 40. #5: Foro Mussolini/Foro Italico

Fascism's legacy is everywhere in Rome.  But only in three places--EUR, to the south of the city; the University district, in central Ro...

RST Top 40. #10: Luigi Moretti's ex-GIL

    Ex-GIL?  What's that?  It means ex- (former) GIL, that is former Casa del GIL (Casa della Gioventu' Italiana del Littorio), ...

The Spiral Stairways of Rome

We've assembled five of our favorite spiral stairways.  Four are in Rome.  On the upper left, Bill is rather awkwardly examining an exhi...